Showing posts with label autumn. Show all posts
Showing posts with label autumn. Show all posts

16 December 2010

Revenge is a dish best served cold (and wet)

This extremely delayed bloggage comes to you from the lobby of the Toledo Hotel in Amman, Jordan, where I am wearing sunglasses, flip flops and a kaffiyeh, but I’ll get to that later. All I’ll say for now is that it’s blissfully warm and sunny here and that the wizened owner of a nut shop gave me a sizeable bag of almonds for free…along with his name (Abdullah) and phone number. Thanks but no thanks.

My mother has developed a habit in the past month whereby, whenever we speak on the phone, she comments, ‘You haven’t written in that blog for a while.’ It’s true; according to the blog, I’ve either been dead or in a coma for the past five weeks. Oops. In my defence I did have application deadlines and a behemoth essay to write analysing Indian state and non-state interaction with sub-Saharan Africa (which was brutal, but now I can hold my own in discussions about the lines of credit offered by the Indian Export-Import Bank to Ethiopian agricultural actors and the capacity building initiatives undertaken by ITEC and SCAAP, which means I can bore the pants off people more effectively than ever). But since then I readily admit that I’ve had pretty much nothing to do. I’ve been at the gym. I’ve drunk a lot of coffee. I’ve spent a lot of time reading the papers—as in I’ve indulged in reading the Times, Telegraph, Guardian and Financial Times from cover to cover quite regularly. Check out the vastness of that political spectrum! One could argue that as an IR student it’s part of my ‘work’, but it’s not that great of an argument.

Anyway.

Since my last pitiful attempts to run a blog (the beginning of November), I have survived three major trials: my last Raisin Weekend, the great Fife Snowpocalypse, and getting to the Edinburgh airport using public transport in time for a 9 am flight. Oh, and I went to Poland too. Poland, Raisin and Fife Snowpocalypse were all very enjoyable; waking up at 5 to catch a medley of buses and trains in atrociously cold weather was not. But for the most part, I’ve been savouring my last winter in St Andrews, pervasive darkness, sleet, diminuitive size, lack of nightlife and all. St Andys has been my home for the past three and a bit years and no one could ever deny its grey seaside beauty or its cosy small-town feel. And, of course, the wonderful bizarre alternate universe we all seem to inhabit here.

Raisin Weekend, for instance. I really don’t feel like explaining the whole academic children and parents and receipts and tea parties and foam fight thing, so I instead direct those of you not in the know to the following page: http://www.yourunion.net/raisin. As I’m now in my fourth year, it was time for the children to take revenge for those shots of low-grade gin I used to wake them up at 7 am on Raisin Sunday last year. Two of my sons, Bertie and Will, talked it up endlessly to the tune of ‘you will wish you had never been born’, and at first I was able to laugh this off because surely it was a joke! But it continued for weeks, and other people started to say things like ‘I heard what your kids are doing to you; it sounds terrible’ and ‘ooh, I don’t envy you’, and yours truly started to get uneasy. I had visions of the children funnelling a mix of gin, spiced rum, tequila, sambuca, box wine and green enchilada sauce into my mouth whilst I was tied to a chair, struggling and in agony (that combo would be my worst nightmare; I can’t even drink a G&T without making horrible squidgy faces and trying to pawn it off on someone else as soon as possible). So when I was told up to bring a bikini and show up at my daughter Averell’s flat at 11.30 am sharp—in St Andrews, punctuality is very important when it comes to the lash because the punishment for lateness is usually pretty disgusting—I was properly nervous.

Upon knocking, I was blindfolded by Bertie and led into the kitchen, where a glass was placed in my hand and I was told to down whatever was in said glass. I tried to sniff it and get some idea of how horrible it was, but then bit my tongue and knocked it back. It turned out to be very tasty, with a mild cocoa flavour and elegant balance of smoothness and bite. The blindfold was removed to reveal a very beautiful full Sunday brunch, which was one of the most wonderfully pleasant shocks I’ve ever gotten (especially considering my fears about a vicious gin revenge). The four of us toasted our stupidly good-looking and charismatic family, and Raisin Sunday officially began. My three wonderful children had not only cooked brunch, they had also stocked up the ingredients for some lovely drinks. There was a glorious supply of champagne and peach juice for bellinis, and bless their hearts, vodka, crème de cacao and Galliano for Golden Cadillacs, which they all knew is one of my favourite cocktails of all time. A few rounds later Will had ceased to actually measure any of the ingredients for the drinks and just dumped the rest of the vodka, crème de cacao and Galliano into a massive bowl and we were all dancing very badly around the kitchen, which appeared to really confuse the tourists that happened to be walking down North Street that day. Though that’s hardly the weirdest thing they would have seen that weekend—even on my walk over, I had witnessed people laughing maniacally as they sprayed whipped cream out their first floor window and a gaggle of boys clambering into the Market Street fountain completely naked.

What about that bikini? you might be wondering. Well, this is the point (about half 12 in the afternoon) where the kids told me to get go get changed, no ifs, ands or buts about it. I sensed that something potentially very bad was about to happen, but I was full of bellinis and Golden Cadillacs and couldn’t stop laughing, so against my better judgement I put on my bikini in Scotland in late November. We all waltzed and sang our way down to Castle Sands (‘SHAKE yo ass! WATCH yoself!’ and so on) and came to a collective halt where the frigid grey waves were crashing onto the sand. Surely they won’t actually make me do this, I thought to myself.

Disrobe! they ordered. Into the sea!

Yes, that is correct, my lovely academic children, who had so nicely made brunch and cocktails, were forcing me to go into the North Sea in November. The North Sea is brutally, horrifically, absurdly cold for the May dip; in November, there really are no words to describe it. As someone who functions best when it’s 35 degrees and sunny, the idea strikes me as particularly awful. I made a feeble, boozy and generally ineffective protest, and the next thing I knew I was standing whimpering in my bikini with my toes already gone numb and Will, his trouser legs rolled up to the knees, holding my hand. ‘Just go in up to your knees,’ he told me. ‘You don’t even have to go in all the way.’ That didn’t seem so terrible, so Will pulled me screeching into the surf so both our calves were underwater. Darling Will then proceeded to shove me over, and lacking the capability to balance at this point, I toppled into the waves and was drenched from head to toe. To make it worse, every time I tried to run away back to the shore, he would just knock me over again to much cheering from Bertie and Averell.

Had I been sober, I probably would have had a coronary from the cold, the shock and the sheer unpleasantness of flailing about in the North Sea in November. Thankfully the cocktails had fortified me somewhat or they at least just made the memory fuzzy. Eventually I was allowed to run back to the beach, where I cocooned myself in a towel and my coat and refused to put on my socks and boots because my feet were sandy. I was handed a flask of hot chocolate (which later turned out to be mostly vodka) and given a piggyback ride by Bertie back to North Street, where I de-sanded my feet and slumped over with a hot water bottle clutched to my chest. At this point it gets a little hazy; I’m told that as we waited outside for a taxi to take me home, I gave up on standing and sort of crumpled to the ground, which was very alarming to the group of tourists passing by. ‘She’s fine, she’s fine!’ shouted Bertie as he picked up my limp form and stuffed it into the back of the car. Somehow I doubt they were convinced; anyway, I was deposited back in my room at about 2 pm and had a lovely six-hour long nap from which I woke up very, very happy with my academic children and very, very happy to be at St Andrews.




















Happy, happy, happy...so happy that I'm curling my toes

How could you not love a place like this?

11 September 2010

Autumn wins you best by this, its mute appeal to sympathy for its decay

Well, as hard as I may try, I can't deny that autumn is upon us here in the northern hemisphere. And as depressing as this sounds, I've come to dread these funny few weeks of mid-September. St Andrews term starts late compared to a lot of places, so for the past three years it has felt like I'm trying in vain to cling on to that warm-sunny-holiday idea. Then, of course, I've started to associate this time of year with goodbyes (California, our summer flat last year, Shanghai). Add to that this imminent sense of dread at the approach of a Scottish winter, and, well, it makes you feel a bit...meh. Don't get me wrong, the weather is really lovely and all that, but I can't shake off that little something niggling at my heart. I have to say that I preferred this time of year when I was a kid, even if I had been in school for something ridiculous like three weeks already at this point. In California, Indian summer is simply gorgeous, and I had Hallowe'en, Thanksgiving, ski season, Christmas and a generally sunny, mild winter to look forward to.

This year, it's especially difficult because of two things, the first of which is the Shanghai goodbyes. Seeing people head back to Europe and the States has sucked. The second thing is that I'm heading into my last year at St Andrews, and no matter how much I slag off the winters there, I love my town and my friends and my St Andrean life more than I could ever say. I'm so excited to graduate, but the thought of leaving my adopted home is enough to leave me in tears. And it's still months away! Then again, I've never been good at...um...not crying. Considering that I always seem to be about 6000 miles away from at least someone that I really care about, you would think that I would have learned to cope better, but most every time I leave California or the UK I end up in tears. The kind of hug-my-knees-to-my-chest-and-sniffle tears that, when I'm sitting alone in a departure lounge, make people think that I'm being deported or something.

I'm afraid that there is a 99 per cent chance that I will be in a similar state in six days' time, but it will be even more depressing because it will be in the middle of the night (thanks a whole f***ing lot, Qatar Airways, for having your ONLY flight out of Shanghai leave at 1 am, that's so convenient).

You can feel that it's autumn here now. All summer long the temperature has been around 34, 35 degrees (high 90s for all Fahrenheit people out there) and pretty steamy, with lots of sun. I would hardly call it cold-29 degrees is still considered 'sweltering' by many of the Brits I know-but it doesn't sap your energy or make you feel like you're being cooked quite the same way it did earlier during the summer. The little blue fan I keep in my handbag has gotten much less use over the past few weeks. I won't lie, I'm worried. If I think that 29 degrees is counts as 'cool', then how am I going to survive landing in Edinburgh to a more-than-likely rainy 13 degrees? Will my fingers fall off? Will I die?? I remember landing at EDI in early February wearing flipflops and a sleeveless top after having been in Singapore and Thailand for two weeks. It was pitch-black and snowing. It took weeks to get over the trauma.

It's getting dark earlier as well. I left the office at about quarter past six the other day after fifteen minutes of heaving frustrated sighs at my computer (my laptop has this spectacular talent for uploading files very, very slowly, leaving me to wonder just how much of my life I've wasted attaching documents to emails) and to my surprise I stepped outside and it was NIGHTTIME. Gah! Doesn't that seem a bit early to you?! This is, of course, mere foreshadowing. I know how much worse it can get. For those of you that have never watched a sunset at 2.30 in the afternoon, I can't say that I would recommend it, but it's an experience. Ditto waking up in the dark for four months straight. Most of you know about my beloved sunlamp that resides on my desk back in St Andrews-the giant square lightbulb with two settings, 0 (off) and 1 (SUPERNATURALLY BRIGHT)-so that's my answer as to how I get through the winter. Unfortunately, even prostrating myself in front of the lamp for those minimum 90 minutes a day doesn't always work. As my aunt says, the best way to combat darkness like that is a boarding pass. After enjoying long evenings and dusky sunsets over the city's skyscrapers all summer, the early nightfall is quite sad.

Shanghai doesn't exactly have New England's reputation for leaf change (no leaf-peeping buses here). but if you look at the trees overhead you can definitely see autumn coming to them as well. This morning I went for one of my standard long ambles, and up on Yuyao Lu, suddenly found myself walking beneath a shower of slim golden leaves being shaken loose by a gust of wind. The street was silent and nearly empty, sort of like being in a surreal urban grove. The sky overhead was a thick blanket of gunmetal clouds, as there was a heavy storm brewing all morning, and you could fill that anticipatory click and whirr of brewing rain. Simply put, it just didn't feel like summer anymore.

You can tell, as well, by the hairy soft shell crabs that are suddenly popping up at all the fishmongers. All through July and August it was crawdads crawdads crawdads, all stacked immaculately in massive red piles, but now it's the crabs' turn. Ditto with persimmons, apples, pomegranates, and all the rest of the fall fruits. The other thing you see everywhere now is, of course, moon cakes! The mid-autumn moon festival is almost here, so they are EVERYWHERE in all their exquisitely crafted festive glory-from vendors in the street selling them off the top of a battered steel bicycle to the bakeries of luxury hotels. If only I were around for the actual holiday, which is the 22nd. To be entirely honest, I'll probably be bleary-eyed and wrapped in a cardigan and uggs in Starbucks with the girls rehashing whatever mayhem freshers week will bring. It doesn't really evoke that same romantic oriental image, does it?

Again, though, I know that there's no reason to get sad, as I'll be back after graduation. I really am just that bad at goodbyes. Oh, and cold weather. According to my weather widget, it's about 19 in St Andys right now (65F) and not pouring rain, which is not awful. I still see many scarves and ugly-but-warm hats in my future, though.

Small things:

-The other day, I walked into a shop and plucked a few dresses off the central rack. I pointed to the dressing room and asked if I could try them on, but the girl behind the counter gave a weary sigh and told me, very definitively, no. Why? I asked. The girl then told me that I couldn't try them on because I was too fat. We all appreciate it when people are straightforward, but what do you even say to that?!
-I promise (really, I do) that I will put my photos on shutterfly when I get back to the UK. It just takes forever with the VPN, and Mom and Dad, you've both made it clear that you don't want to go anywhere near my facebook. Good call.
-As Qatar Airways are so ridiculously anal about overweight luggage, I have decided to ship some clothes/stuff back to Scotland via the China Post slow boat. It's only 50rmb per kilo, which is a fraction of what QA would charge, and will get to the UK in a month. My goal is to have The Box (as I've taken to calling it) prepared and sent off in the next few days. Well, I guess it kind of has to be in the next few days, but sooner rather than later. If anyone wants anything sent to the UK in The Box, let me know asap and somehow get me the money for the extra kilos. For the record, I'm very curious to see whether or not The Box will actually get to me. Ever. If it does arrive within a month, I'll probably have a coronary out of pure shock. There's apparently an even slower option for 25rmb per kilo. A parcel is meant to take three months to arrive, meaning it probably reaches its destination within the next two years. It's 2010, why do these things still take so bloody long?! Ahem. Sorry.
-This afternoon I went up to Hongkou to get some clothes and jewellery at the Qipu Market, which is one of those multi-story labyrinthine behemoths packed full of stalls and pushy vendors. Amongst the things I bought was a necklace of a rhinestone panda playing an electric guitar. Pandas? Rock 'n roll? Totally logical combination. I also got myself a shirt that reads, 'THE FILTH AND THE FURY!' (yes, in all caps, with exclamation point). Behind the words is the outline of some very bizarre and perhaps Satanic-looking animal, like a cross between a rabid bunny and a goat. I really have no idea what the shirt means. At all. Finally, I figured I should buy some little souvenir touristy thing, so I got myself a shirt to sleep in. It appears to be a Texas extra large and has a picture of two pandas eating bamboo above the words 'Shanghai, China'. That may seem like a pointless disambiguation, but there are apparently Shanghais in North Korea and Puerto Rico as well. I would hate for people to be confused. We don't have pandas in Shanghai, though. That part is a lie.